This magnificent church, a mixture of 12th- and 15th century styles, sits 2km north of the bridge (at Vi) on Alnö island, just east of Sundsvall. The upper wall and ceiling paintings, likely done by one of Albertus Pictor’s pupils, have survived intact. Even better is the late-11th-century carved wooden font across the road; the upper part combines Christian and Viking symbolism, while the lower part shows beasts that embody evil. Catch bus 1 to Vi (two hourly), then walk.