The Glacier Express is one of Europe's mythical train journeys. It starts and ends in two of Switzerland's oldest, glitziest mountain resorts – Zermatt and St Moritz – and the Alpine scenery is magnificent in parts. Check the weather forecast before committing: a blue sky is essential for the eight-hour train ride to be worthwhile. Highlights include the one-hour ride from Disentis to Andermatt, across the Oberalp Pass (2033m); and the six-arch 65m-high Landwasser Viaduct between Chur and Filisur.
Don't assume it is hard-core mountain porn through the gigantic windows of the stylish panoramic carriages for the duration of the journey: the views in the 191 tunnels the train passes through are not particularly wonderful, for starters.
If you're travelling with children or can't bear the thought of sitting all day watching mountain scenery that risks becoming monotonous, opt for just a section of the journey. An alternative is to ditch the direct glamour train for regional express SBB trains along the same route – cheaper, no reservations required, with windows that open (those on the Glacier Express don’t) and the chance to stretch your legs when changing trains.
Children aged under six are free (buy an extra seat reservation if you don't fancy a young child on your lap for eight hours), and children aged six to 16 years pay half-price plus seat reservation. The three-course lunch, served in the dining car or brought to your seat, can be unstartling; consider bringing your own Champagne picnic.
