Driving along the coast of the Marmara Sea in Istanbul. Photo © Ahmet Ihsan Ariturk/123rf.
Bus travel gives first-time visitors the best of both worlds. It allows scenic views of the countryside without the high cost of driving. Bus travel is more time-consuming than flying, but domestic coach companies have top-of-the-line luxurious coaches with pursers to attend to your needs. Coach fares tend to be similar in high season and off-season, unlike airfares, but they are a bit lower during summer. As high-speed rail lines are commissioned, it also makes sense to choose rail over coaches when the rail service exists.
There are plenty of reputable airlines in Turkey. Leg room can be limited, so upgrade to an exit-row seat if you can, or take solace in the fact the flight time is less than 60 minutes. The national carrier, Turkish Airlines (0212/444-0849), is often the most expensive, but you can collect frequent-flyer miles with a long list of their partner airlines. This includes their budget airline Anadolu Jet (0850/333-2538), which is cheaper and has fewer flights per day to major domestic locations. Onur Air (0850/210-6687) and Atlas Jet (0850/222-0000) also offer reduced fares, and like Turkish Airlines include a small complimentary snack no matter the flight time. Pegasus Airlines (0850/250-0737), on the other hand, can require the purchase of additional meals and sometimes seat allocation on top of the advertised ticket price. Other domestic flights are available through Bora Jet (0212/465-2878) and SunExpress (444-0797).
Choosing a carrier comes down to several factors. First is the best flight times, then deciding on which airport to use if Istanbul is part of the itinerary. Istanbul’s Atatürk Airport is much easier and quicker to access than Sabiha Gökçen on the Asian side if you’re based in Sultanahmet. It pays to plan ahead, especially during religious holidays such as Şeker Bayramı (Eid ul-Fitr, right after Ramadan) and Kurban Bayramı (Eid al-Adha), when the demand for domestic travel is enormous and prices go up accordingly. If you’re lugging heavy suitcases, also make sure your discount fare includes 20 kilograms for checked luggage; otherwise you will be charged extra at the airport. Better rates for excess luggage can be purchased from your airline’s website prior to departure.
Congestion, along with one-way traffic infrastructure, manic drivers, and the extreme difficulty of finding parking in the largest cities, can make driving in Turkey stressful. But driving but will give you the flexibility to venture to sites that a dolmuş or coach cannot reach, and nothing beats driving through the Turkish countryside. Formerly shoddy highways and signage have been updated to European standards, and city streets—outside Istanbul, İzmir, and Ankara—are easy to navigate. Driving under the influence, once a common practice nationwide, has been virtually eradicated thanks to ubiquitous sobriety checkpoints. both provincial and municipal police strictly enforce speed limits.
An International Driving Permit is not legally required but will help smooth the experience. Major international car rental companies are located at all airports and at major city centers nationwide; vehicles can be reserved via their websites. Among them are Avis, National Car Rental, and Hertz. Budget also has a small presence in Turkey. German giant Sixt has numerous locations nationwide, providing one of the largest fleets available along with budget prices. Promotional rates as well as roadside and medical assistance packages provided by some vendors may come in handy when driving in a foreign country. Towns and cities also have car rental companies with basic sedans from as little as 70TL per day.
Excerpted from the Second Edition of Moon Istanbul & the Turkish Coast.
