About 26km south of Kuşadası, the Dilek Peninsula juts westwards into the Aegean, almost touching Samos. West of Güzelçamlı village, Dilek National Park is a mountainous reserve with walking trails, stunning vistas, azure coves for swimming, and deep green forests inhabited by wild boars and horses.
A brown sign just before the park gate points to Zeus Mağarası ('Cave of Zeus'), where the water's refreshingly cold in summer and warm in winter.
After the gate, four rounded bays with pebble beaches lie below the road, which has great views from designated pullover points. The road tapers off at a high-security military compound covering the peninsula's end, from where men in uniform can train their binoculars on the tourists frolicking on opposing Samos.
The first cove, İçmeler Köyü (1km from the entrance), has a sandy beach, but it is the busiest and somewhat dirty with views of Kuşadası's urban sprawl. About 4km further on, Aydınlık Köyü is a quieter, 800m-long pebble strand backed by pines, and is busy enough to warrant a lifeguard station, though it is not always manned.
About 1km further along, after the jandarma (provincial police) station turn-off, the signposted kanyon appears on the left. Boards here give information and maps of the park. A 15km walk down a forest path, Doğanbey village has beautiful seaside stone houses, restored by affluent incomers. A few kilometres west of Doğanbey, the fishing village and ancient Hellenistic port of Karine has a waterfront fish restaurant. The path's first 6km are open to all, but after that you need a permit or to be with a guide. There is also a 25km cycle track to Doğanbey from Güzelçamlı.
Dilek's third bay, Kavaklı Burun Köyü (1km past the canyon entrance), has a half-moon pebble beach. The final visitable beach, pebbly Karasu Köyü (11km from the entrance), is the most placid, and enjoys revelatory views of mountainous Samos rising from the sea. If you're lucky, you might even see a dolphin.
Camping is forbidden – the party's over at closing time. All four beaches have free wood-slatted chairs, which are quickly taken, and umbrellas and fold-out chairs to rent. There are restaurants at the entrance and restaurant shacks on each bay.
In summer, dolmuşes run from Kuşadası every 20 minutes to Dilek (₺5, 40 minutes), but only as far as the third bay (Kavaklı Burun). Off season, if your dolmuş is empty, the driver may stop at the park gate. The park entrance fee is paid on the bus. Dolmuşes also run from Söke to Doğanbey in summer. With your own wheels, you can drive to Doğanbey, 30km southwest of Söke; look for the turn-off on the road from Priene to Miletus.
