The quadruplet of 780-year-old stone doorways on Divriği's Ulu Cami & Darüşşifa complex are so intricately carved that some say their craftmanship proves the existence of god.
Although sleepy Divriği seems an obscure place for such magnificent religious structures, this was once the capital of a Seljuk beylik (principality), ruled over by the local emir Ahmet Şah and his wife, Melike Turan Melik, who founded the adjoining institutions in 1228.
A trip out here from Sivas is an immenseley rewarding day out.
Entered through the 14m-high Darüşşifa Gate, the hospital (one of the oldest in Anatolia) is pervaded by an air of serenity. The vast domed inner courtyard is centred around an octagonal pool with a spiral run-off, which allowed the tinkle of running water to break the silence of the room and soothe patients' nerves. A platform raised above the main floor may have been for musicians who likewise soothed the patients. The building was used as a medrese from the 18th century.
Next door, the West Gate of the mosque is a riot of kilim motifs, rosettes and textured effects. Note the carvings of the two-headed eagles on the far sides of the gate. Inside the mosque is very simple with an intricately carved wooden minbar (a pulpit in a mosque) and unique mihrab (niche in a minaret indicating the direction of Mecca). On the northern side of the mosque is the spectacular North Gate, a dizzying cornucopia of floral designs, Arabic inscriptions, and a wealth of geometric patterns and medallions. Climb the stairs to the eastern side to view the smaller Shah's Gate.
Dolmuş services from Sivas leave from the terminal beside Sivas otogar at 9am, noon, 3pm and 5pm (TL25, 2½ hours), and from Divriği back to Sivas at 5am, 8.30am, noon and 4.30pm. All stop in Kangal. It is just about possible to see Balıklı Kaplıca and Divriği on the same day using public transport as long as you take the 9am bus and visit Balıklı Kaplıca first.
A return taxi from Sivas, stopping in Balıklı Kaplıca and Divriği, costs about TL200. Take ID as there is sometimes a police checkpoint after Kangal.
Drivers should note that there's no through road to Erzincan from Divriği, forcing you to head northwest to Zara and the highway before you can start driving east.
