The 17th-century Taş Han, is an Ottoman caravanserai and workshop with a cafe in the courtyard. Two floors of shops sell a mixture of local garb and copperware, and paintings of sailboats and doe-eyed puppies.
Behind the Taş Han are streets lined with old half-timbered Ottoman houses. There are more shops in this area selling crafts; some of the designs you see on yazmas , kilims and carpets were assimilated from Afghan refugees who settled here during the Soviet invasion of Afghanistan in the 1980s.
In the fruit and vegetable market, across GOP Bulvarı from the Taş Han, stand the Hatuniye Camii and ruined medrese , dating from 1485 and the reign of Sultan Beyazıt II.
A few hundred metres north of the Taş Han, behind some plastic sandal stands on the same side of the street, look out for Sümbül Baba Türbesi (1291), an octagonal Seljuk tomb. Beside it a road leads up for around 1km to the citadel , built in the 5th century and restored during the Seljuk and Ottoman eras. Little remains but the fine view, and women travellers should not go up alone.
