On the main road linking Kars with Ani, drive west until the village of Esenkent comes into view. About 200m before the Esenkent signpost, take the gravel road on the right. Drive 4.5km until you reach a first junction; continue straight ahead for about 1.8km and you'll arrive at a second intersection. Bear right and after 1.5km you'll enter the Kurdish village of Kozluca, where you can admire two Armenian monuments.
The larger church, thought to have been constructed in the 11th century, is badly damaged, whereas the minor one, 200m across a small ravine easily negotiated on foot, is still in good shape, with a nice, 12-sided dome-drum adorned with blind arcades.
