On the way to the castle, along the riverbanks huddle assorted crumbling reminders of Kars' ancient past, including this former church. Built between 932 and 937 for the Bagratid King Abas, it was turned into a mosque in 1579 when the Ottomans rebuilt much of the city; the Russians added the porches in the 19th century. The 12 relief carvings on the drum are of the apostles.
Near the mosque you'll see the ruins of the Ulu Cami and the Beylerbeyi Sarayı (Beylerbeyi Palace) nestling beneath the castle.