Signposted from the main Soğanlı road, some 6km south of Mustafapaşa, is the town of Cemil , where chickens rule the cobblestone paths, overlooked by abandoned Greek mansions on the hillside that are teetering into disrepair. Follow the signposted alleyway through the village to the picturesque blue-columned Cemil Church with its fresco fragments (all extremely defaced).