Aberdaron (population 1000)is an ends-of-the-earth kind of place with whitewashed, windswept houses contemplating Aberdaron Bay. It was traditionally the last resting spot before pilgrims made the treacherous crossing to Bardsey.
Lingering from this time is St Hywyn's Church , stoically positioned above the pebbly beach. The left half of the church dates from 1100, while the right half was added 400 years later, to cope with the volume of pilgrims. With their spiritual needs sorted, the Bardsey-bound saints could then claim a meal at Y Gegin Fawr . Dating from 1300, it still dishes up meals.