Malls have conquered Manama in a big way, but the antidote lies in this earthy vestige of Old Bahrain, located off Lulu Ave. Fruit and veg dominates the cavernous main space, and you'll rub shoulders with a broad cross-section of Manama society doing their shopping far from the glitz of the retail temples. Don't miss the aromatic fish market , in a separate building off the northwestern corner – get here before dawn to see local fishers bringing their catch to market.