Torbat-e Jam’s highly impressive must-see sight is the beautiful Jami mausoleum complex . Here, 10 religious buildings intertwine around the grave of 12th-century Sunni mystic and poet Sheikh Ahmad Jami. His tombstone rests under a very old pistachio tree, above which soars a particularly impressive blue-tiled main iwan . In this iwan there are three doors. The one to the right is open to all visitors and leads through a small sanctuary into an inner courtyard across which is the AD 1442 ‘New’ Mosque . Look for the magnificent vaulted ceilings and octagonal columns on either side of its prayer hall. It’s ‘new’ compared to the 1302 Atirgh Mosque behind you on the same courtyard, which has double-level arch-vaults and fragments of beautiful calligraphy.
The finest gems are hidden behind the other two locked doors in the main iwan . Gatekeeper Qolam Ali Keliddar (who you probably unwittingly met when bagging up your shoes on entering the complex) has the keys. Technically he’s only supposed to open the chunky locks for VIPs or those with a letter from Miras Ferhangi. However, foreign tourists are so rare that you’ll probably be invited to enjoy green tea with him and visiting Afghan Sufis. The small door on the left leads to the 14th-century Kermani Mosque , named after Masoud Kerman who created the splendid mihrab and calligraphy inside. Through the heavy wooden main doors, the 1264 Khaneh Ghe sports ancient graffiti and domed ceilings with particularly well-preserved colourful frescoes.
The complex is 700m east of Valiasr Sq via Mirqaveh, then Maadan Sts.
