Kalat’s foremost sight is Nader Shah’s Khorshid Palace, 700m beyond the savari terminus. It’s not really a palace at all but a distinctively fluted circular tomb-tower, on an octagonal base set in beautifully manicured lawns. The name Khorshid (literally ‘sun’) refers to one of Nader’s wives, not some arcane astronomical purpose. It was never finished, hence the odd proportions and lack of a dome. Intricate exterior panels include pineapple and pear motifs. These fruits were unknown in 18th-century Khorasan, suggesting that Nader Shah used foreign artisans he’d engaged (ie kidnapped) during his Indian conquests. The tower’s magnificent interior uses gilt and ample colour to bring life to 16 stalactite-vaulted alcoves. Stairs beneath the rear terrace lead down into a graciously cool ethnology museum , graphically depicting Khorasan village life. A gift shop sells Naderabillia.
Facing the complex, an obvious ‘Tourist Information’ sign attracts visitors to Reza Mortezabi’s appealing little herb shop . Reza speaks good English but ‘information’ means a photocopied page from a prehistoric Lonely Planet guide.
The beautiful blue dome, easily spied from the museum steps, belongs to the otherwise modest 1747 Kabud Gonbad Mosque .
