The city’s main square is fringed by souvenir shops and has an ugly modern fountain at its centre. Located on the northeast side of the shrine, it’s a fantastic place to spend an hour or two people-watching – particularly in the early evening, when it is busiest and most atmospheric. At this time of day the gold jewellery glittering in shop windows is as gaudy as the coloured lights adorning the shrine’s minarets and dome, and the square has an almost carnivalesque feel. Many of the shops here sell sohun, a sinfully sweet brittle made with pistachio, almond, saffron and cardamom. Consider buying a small tin from one of the shops and a glass of tea (US$0.25) from the square’s tea stand so that you can enjoy them while watching the passing parade of pilgrims making their way to and from the shrine.
