Most impressive is this mosque founded under Fath Ali Shah in the 1820s. Two of its four iwans (barrel-vaulted halls opening onto courtyards) offer perfectly measured use of restrained coloured brickwork. There’s no such restraint in the dazzling blue tiling of the contemporary Imamzadeh Yahya . The extraordinarily high, if austere, west iwan of the Masjed-e Jameh (Jameh Mosque) dates from a 1424 rebuild, but the mosque’s most lovable feature is the gorgeous 21m brick minaret (11th century?). Leaning and kinked, it still dominates the town and is floodlit at night in incongruous electric green.
