Reminiscent of Cappadocia (Turkey), remarkable Kandovan is a photogenic settlement of troglodyte homes and storage barns carved out of curiously eroded rocks. These sit above a newer lower village like a conference of stone ice-cream cones. Scrambling along steep, narrow paths between them gives you ample idea of the place within a few minutes. However, staying overnight allows you to ‘feel’ the village without its crowds of local tourists.