The ruins at Jerash cover a huge area and can seem daunting at first, especially as there is virtually no signage. To help the ruins come alive, engage one of the knowledgeable guides (JD20) at the ticket checkpoint to help you navigate the main complex. Walking at a leisurely pace and allowing time for sitting on a fallen column and enjoying the spectacular views, you can visit the main ruins in a minimum of three to four hours.
At the extreme south of the site is the striking Hadrian’s Arch, also known as the Triumphal Arch, which was built in AD 129 to honour the visit of Emperor Hadrian. Behind the arch is the hippodrome, which hosted chariot races watched by up to 15,000 spectators.
The South Gate, originally one of four along the city wall and built in AD 130, leads into the city proper. The Oval Plaza (forum) is one of the most distinctive sites of Jerash, unusual because of its shape and huge size (90m long and 80m at its widest point). Fifty-six Ionic columns surround the paved limestone plaza, linking the cardo maximus with the Temple of Zeus.
The elegant remains of the Temple of Zeus, built around AD 162, can be reached from the forum – a worthwhile climb if just for the view. Next door, the South Theatre was built in the 1st century AD with a capacity of 5000 spectators. From the upper stalls, the acoustics are still wonderful as demonstrated by the occasional roving minstrel or drummer.
To the northeast of the forum lies the cardo maximus, the city’s main thoroughfare, also known as the colonnaded street. Stretching for 800m to the North Gate, the street is still paved with the original stones, rutted by the thousands of chariots that once jostled along its length.
The colonnaded street is punctuated by the nymphaeum, the main fountain of the city, before giving rise to a superb propylaeum or monumental gateway, and a staircase. The Temple of Artemis, towering over Jerash at the top of the stairs, was dedicated to the patron goddess of the city, but alas was dismantled to provide masonry for new churches under Theodorius in AD 386.
Further to the north is the North Theatre, built originally in AD 165 and now restored to former glory.
The small museum contains a good collection of artefacts from the site.
