The walking trail passes a golden-roofed Greek Orthodox church and leads, under the watchful eye of border guards, to the river – little more than a stagnant ditch. It’s not very inviting but you can be baptised in the Jordan if accompanied by a priest. Across the river (and the border) is a rival Israeli baptism complex. This is the only place where civilians can currently touch the Jordan River as the remainder runs through a military no-man’s-land.
