One of the highlights of the Chouf mountains is the early 19th-century Beiteddine Palace, located in the otherwise unexceptional Beiteddine village around 50km southeast of Beirut.
Sitting majestically on a hill surrounded by terraced gardens and orchards, Beiteddine Palace was built over a period of 30 years in the early 19th century by Emir Bashir Chehab II, Ottoman-appointed governor of the region. Its name means ‘House of Faith’, acknowledging the older Druze hermitage that originally occupied the site.
During the French mandate the palace was used for local administration, and after 1930 it was declared a historic monument. In 1943 Lebanon’s first president after independence declared it his summer residence. The palace was extensively damaged during the Israeli invasion; it’s estimated that up to 90% of the original contents were lost during this time. When fighting ended in 1984, the site was claimed by the Druze militia, and Walid Jumblatt, the Druze leader, ordered its restoration. In 1999 the Druze returned it to the government.
Although conceived by Italian architects, the palace incorporates many traditional forms of Arab architecture. The main gate opens onto a 60m-wide outer courtyard (Dar al-Baraniyyeh) that’s walled on three sides only; the fourth side has views over the surrounding valleys and hills.
A double staircase on the outer courtyard’s western side leads into a smaller central courtyard (Dar al-Wousta) with a central fountain. Beyond this courtyard (accessed from its northern side) is the third – and last – inner courtyard (Dar al-Harim). This was the centre of the family quarters, and incorporates a beautiful hammam and huge kitchens.
Underneath the Dar al-Wousta (accessed via a doorway near the staircase) are the former stables, now home to an outstanding collection of 5th- and 6th-century Byzantine mosaics. Found at Jiyyeh, 30km south of Beirut, they were brought by Walid Jumblatt to Beiteddine in 1982. Whatever you do, don’t miss them: they’re truly stunning.
During June, July and August, the palace hosts a well-known annual arts festival (http://beiteddine.org). Check the festival website for full details.
