The Old City’s stunning, often crumbling, Mamluk-styled Ottoman architecture includes a souq , but merchants have been moved to an outdoor area due to friction with Jewish settlers. Look out for the nets hung over the narrow streets to catch trash thrown from the upstairs windows (home to settlers) at the Palestinian shops below. You can also peer through the barbed wire at Hebron's gold souk, once renowned throughout the region but now completely off limits, with the doors to the shops welded shut during the Second Intifada.
For shops and food, it generally makes sense to head away from the Tomb of the Patriachs, where more of the stalls are open.