A few kilometres north of Old Al Ula, Umm Al Daraj (Mother of Steps) is worth a detour. Climbing the hill reveals three red-sandstone religious structures, a former Lihyanite sacrificial altar and some beautiful Lihyanite inscriptions; ancient petroglyphs – depicting people and camels – graffiti the site. From the top of the steps there are stunning views over the wadi. You’ll need a guide to find Umm Al Daraj, but try to get there for sunset – it’s well worth the climb.