Jeddah’s old coral houses are in a sorry state. Unique among the sea of dilapidation is the restored Naseef House, which belonged to one of Jeddah’s most powerful trading families. It’s set back from Souq Al Alawi – look out for the wide ramps installed by King Abdul Aziz in place of staircases so that camel-mounted messengers could ride all the way to the upper terrace in order to deliver messages.