Follow your nose to Dubai’s largest and busiest fish market, near the Al Shindagha Tunnel. Shrimp (prawns) the size of bananas, metre-long kingfish and mountains of blue crabs are among the treasures of the sea being hawked at this market since 1988. Come either early in the morning or in the evening, and wear sneakers or other waterproof shoes. If you’re buying, ask to have the fish cleaned.
The smell may be a bit much at first but you’ll get used to it after a while and it’s great to watch, not just the wiggling wares, but the wild haggling between the blue-suited fishmongers and their customers. The adjacent fruit and vegetable market isn’t nearly as exciting but great for stocking up on anything fresh from pears to papayas, all neatly stacked and bargain-priced. Date lovers have a whole row of stands to peruse.