This vast wholesale market, part of which is open air, is the exchange point for melons from Jordan, potatoes from Turkey and onions from just about everywhere. A highlight is cruising along 'date alley', where shops sell around 45 varieties (from Dh25 per kilogram). Giant medjool dates from Saudi Arabia cost Dh65 per kilogram, while medicinal ajwa dates fetch Dh110 per kilogram. Try the plump, yellow sucri dates, which are prized for their sweetness.
The friendly vendors (from India mostly) are happy to let you sample, but it's polite to leave with a small purchase. If you buy fresh dates, choose half-ripe ones for the bittersweet contrast, and eat within a couple of days. Dried dates last a lifetime (well, almost)!