Although little remains of the original Fort Canby that once stood in what is now 2 miles southwest of Ilwaco in Cape Disappointment State Park, the location is of considerable interest because of its interpretive center, wild beach and hiking trails (8 miles in total) to its two dramatic lighthouses.
Established in 1852, Fort Canby was heavily armed during the Civil War to prevent Confederate gunboats from entering the Columbia River. Upgraded dramatically during WWII, the fort stood as the principal defender of the river. Although no shots were fired from Fort Canby, a Japanese submarine did manage to penetrate close enough to the Oregon side to fire on Fort Stephens in 1942.
Lewis and Clark camped near here in November 1805 and visited the cape while searching for a winter camp. Their whole cross-continental journey is faithfully recounted at the sequentially laid out Lewis & Clark Interpretive Center , on a high bluff inside the state park overlooking the point where the Columbia River meets the Pacific. There's a succinct 20-minute film recounting their journey.
From the interpretive center, a hiking trail leads half a mile to Cape Disappointment Lighthouse . Built in 1856, it's the oldest such structure still in use on the West Coast. On the other side of the park (accessible via a trail), the North Head Lighthouse , built in 1896, offers tours from $2.50. Call the park for more details.
