This rare slice of ‘Old Hawaii,’ home to an 1860s church and a wild lava coast, is reached by taking Keʻanae Rd on the makai side of the highway just beyond Keʻanae Arboretum. Families have tended stream-fed taro patches here for generations.
Marking the heart of the village is Keʻanae Congregational Church , built in 1860, and entered over the steps of the adjacent cottage. The church is made of lava rocks and coral mortar, uncovered by whitewash. It’s a welcoming place with open doors and a guest book, although the roof has suffered storm damage (the community is taking up a collection to fix it). Note the cameo portraits in the adjacent cemetery.
Just past the church is Keʻanae Beach Park , with its scenic coastline of jagged black lava and hypnotic white-capped waves. Forget swimming, as the water is rough and there’s no beach. The rock islets you see off the coast – Mokuhala and Mokumana – are seabird sanctuaries. Turn around here, as there’s a private residential area beyond with nothing else to see. There are public restrooms (open 8am to 7pm) across from the small parking area.