Royal St, with its rows of high-end antiques shops, block after block of galleries and potted ferns hanging from cast-iron balconies, is the elegant yin to Bourbon St’s Sodom-and-Gomorrah yang. Stroll or bicycle past its patina beauty and fading grace; chat with locals as they lounge on their porches; and get a sense of the fun – with a dash of elegance – that was once the soul of the Vieux Carré. From 11am to 4pm most of the street turns into a pedestrian-only mall, making strolling a breeze.