The sublimely well-preserved Ancestral Puebloan cliff dwellings of Betatkin and Keet Seel are protected at the Navajo National Monument and can only be reached on foot. It’s no walk in the park, but there’s truly something magical about approaching these ancient stone villages in relative solitude. The site is administered by the National Park Service, which controls access and maintains a visitor center 9 miles north of Hwy 160 at the end of paved Hwy 564.
For a distant glimpse of Betatkin follow the easy Sandal Trail about half a mile from the center. There’s a free campground, with 31 first-come, first-served sites, and water nearby. Betatkin, which translates as ‘ledge house,’ is reached on a ranger-led 2.5-mile hike departing from the visitor center daily at 8:20am and 11am between June and September. Groups are limited to 25 people. Ranger availability and weather permitting, there’s also a tour at 10am during the other months; be sure to phone ahead. Carry plenty of water; it’s a tough slog back up to the canyon rim.
The 8.5-mile trail to the astonishingly beautiful Keet Seel is steep, strenuous and involves crossing sand gullies and shallow streams, but it’s well worth the effort. The trail is open from late May to early September and requires a backcountry permit reservable up to five months in advance. Do call early since daily access is limited to 20 people; alternatively show up early on the day and hope for cancelations. You hike on your own but are met at the pueblo by a ranger who will take you on a tour. Most hikers stay at the primitive campground down in the canyon, which has composting toilets but no drinking water.
