The first modern-art museum in the country (opened in 1921) houses a small but exquisite collection of European and American works. Renoir’s Luncheon of the Boating Party is a highlight, along with pieces by Gauguin, Van Gogh, Matisse, Picasso and many other greats. The intimate rooms, set in a restored mansion, put you unusually close to the artworks. The permanent collection is free on weekdays.
The Rothko Room, which hangs four of the abstract expressionist’s pieces, is worth a peek, although sometimes it's part of the museum's ticketed exhibits (in which case extra admission fees apply). The Phillips' Sunday chamber-music series has been making sweet sounds since 1941.