For a more traditional out-West experience get out to Canelo, about 30 miles east of Patagonia, and shack up with the cowboys. Amid rolling hills of oak forest inhabited by bobcats and javelinas, Whisper's is run with green sensibility (water is recycled, for example), and exudes a frontier attitude and energy. The rooms are decidedly rustic-chic; the homemade meals are to die for. Whisper's Animal Sanctuary , which takes in abused horses, is next door and open for tours.