The Hudson River Valley stretches north from New York City and the New Jersey border, leading to many densely populated bedroom communities of Westchester and Rockland Counties. The area is not a destination in itself, but several attractive mansions and gardens are worth a stop. The best of the bunch is Kykuit, the former Rockefeller family residence near Tarrytown. The food and entertainment are on par with what you’ll find in Manhattan.
The Hudson Highlands encompass Orange and Putnam Counties along the most dramatic-looking stretch of the river. A solid granite mountain range called the Appalachian Plateau crosses the Hudson here, and the river has carved a narrow and deep path through the range. A dreamy mist often clings to the peaks of Storm King Mountain and Breakneck Ridge on opposite shores. It’s an easy daytrip from New York City to browse the antiques shops along Main Street in Cold Spring, or visit the West Point campus for a military history refresher.
Part commuter district, part bucolic getaway, the middle section of the valley starts to resemble a traveler’s destination. The Shawangunk Mountains of Ulster County and the riverside mansions of Dutchess County define the landscape. Rolling hills and farm fields intersperse with lakes, streams, and forests. The towns of New Paltz, Saugerties, and Woodstock make a convenient base for exploration. Dia:Beacon exhibits artwork from the 1960s to the present, and the Culinary Institute of America trains first-rate chefs.
Wellness resorts and farm stays have replaced yesterday’s summer boarding houses in the Western Catskills region. Many visitors head here to try an off-the-grid existence. Small communities include young farmers, artists, and second-home owners. Historic covered bridges span the Willowemoc Creek and Beaverkill Rivers, while hundreds of lakes and streams create a playground for anglers and bird-watchers. Spend an hour inside the Catskill Fly Fishing Center and Museum, even if you’re not the fishing type.
The Catskill and Berkshire Mountains frame the upper section of the Hudson River Valley in Greene and Columbia Counties. Adventure-seekers come here to hike and ski, but there are pockets of culture too, in the towns of Hudson and Catskill. Leaf peeping is arguably the best in this forested region. The topography of the Catskills inspired the first generation of the Hudson River School of painters. The Livingston family home at Clermont and the Persian-style Olana, which belonged to painter Frederic Church, are worth a visit.
The Capital-Saratoga region marks the end of the navigable Hudson River and the gateway to the rugged Adirondack wilderness. Business travel brings most people to Albany, while horseracing or healing waters might lead one farther north to Saratoga Springs. While in the state capital, see some modern art, learn about the colonial history, and taste the local bounty. Across the river, Rensselaer County consists of industrial Troy, a top-notch engineering school, and many small rural towns.
Excerpted from the Fourth Edition of Moon Hudson Valley & the Catskills.