Philly has been called the biggest small town in America. It rivals any major urban center in its diverse cultural opportunities, yet it also has a cozy, small-town feel. While Center City is a bustling metropolis, the city is made up of close-knit neighborhoods where families have been rooted for generations. Like Rocky Balboa, Philly’s favorite fictional son, Philly is a town known for its scrappy, fighting spirit, excessive pride, loyalty, and determination. But under the tough exterior, Philadelphians are also friendly and fun-loving. There are no prouder locals anywhere in the world, and while we enjoy a weekend visit to nearby New York, the rumored underdog complex is a myth; locals genuinely believe that Philly is better than NYC.
On a weekday when I just don’t feel like cooking, we head to Nam Phuong, a great, inexpensive Vietnamese restaurant on Washington Avenue, or order takeout from Vic Sushi or Tiffin (Indian). There are tons of great BYOBs (bring your own bottle) in town, and Dmitri’s and Mercato are two of my faves. When you’re ready to lay down a few bucks, head to Amada (or really any of Jose Garces’ restaurants) or Tequilas Restaurant for a lively night-on-the-town atmosphere and excellent food and drinks.
I’ll often choose a good old dive, like Bob & Barbara’s or Oscar’s, where the Friday happy hour often turns into a raucous dance party. Or I’ll stop at my favorite neighborhood bar, Sidecar, where I can munch on half-priced nachos with my craft beer at one of the outdoor tables. For a fancy cocktail and cool mob-era atmosphere, Prohibition Taproom is tops.
Bob & Barbara’s
1509 South St., 215/545-4511,
bobandbarbaras.comWhile others try so hard, B & B’s is simply cool without having to try. A distinguished jazz band of mature men decked in tuxes plays on weekends and on Monday nights, so despite the dirt-cheap prices and dirty floors, the place has an air of class.
The relaxed vibe and varied events draw a diverse crowd all week: a table-tennis tournament on Tuesday, bingo on Wednesday, a drag show on Thursday, and even a drunken spelling bee on the second Monday of the month.
In Center City, walking and biking are excellent options for navigating the flat grid of streets while avoiding parking and traffic. New bike lanes have been recently added on many major thoroughfares, making biking better than ever. Public transit is extensive is Center City, and you can get pretty much anywhere by bus, subway, or regional rail line. A car comes in handy for exploring Fairmount Park or the Northwest section of the city, where things are more spread out and public transit is less extensive. When going out for a night on the town, walking or grabbing a cab is usually the quickest and easiest, especially in Center City and surrounding neighborhoods.
The two best options for budget travelers are Apple Hostels in the heart of Old City and Chamounix Mansion in Fairmount Park. Both offer dorm-style accommodations and a few semi-private quarters. Chamounix is a cool, converted historic mansion, but it’s off the main drag, so having a car is useful when staying there. Apple, on the other hand, is right in the heart of Old City, so it may be a bit loud and active, but this is the place for you if you don’t want to worry about transportation and if you plan on hitting all the Old city attractions by day and bars by night. For those looking for a reasonably-priced digs with a bit more privacy, check out some of the smaller bed-and-breakfasts in Center City East or South Philly, where you can stay in a cozy room in a converted home for less than you’d spend at most hotels.
Chamounix Mansion
3250 Chamounix Dr.,
215/878-3676 or 800/379-0017,
www.philahostel.orgA one-of-a-kind mansion turned youth hostel, Chamounix (pronounced CHAM-ah-nee) occupies a bucolic setting in the heart of Fairmount Park. Originally built as a country home for Philadelphia merchant George Plumstead in 1802, the restored mansion offers clean, air-conditioned dorm accommodations, with several private rooms available, at an unbeatable price of $20 for Hostelling International members with valid ID, $23 for non-members, and $8 for children under 16 traveling with their family.
The Rittenhouse Hotel overlooks Rittenhouse Square, the park in the heart of Center City surrounded by many of the swankiest restaurants and shops in the city. It is in the perfect location, with every amenity. Mark Wahlberg, Oprah, Bill Clinton, and Tom Hanks are among the many visiting celebrities who have stayed there. Need I say more?
Rittenhouse Hotel
210 W. Rittenhouse Sq.,
215/546-9000 or 800/635-1042,
www.rittenhousehotel.comEnglish-born vice president David Benton oversees the independent luxury hotel, bringing a healthy dose of British sophistication to Philadelphia. Consistently ranked in the top 100 boutique hotels in the world, this is the place to stay on Rittenhouse Square.
Long-term apartment accommodations are available for those with fat wallets. Everything you want can be found on-site—an indoor pool, gym, salon, and two restaurants including Lacroix, one of the most esteemed fine-dining establishments in the city.
Philly has four distinct seasons typical of the Northeast. Each one is beautiful in its own right, but spring and fall are generally pleasant and mild, while winter and summer can be brutally cold or hot at times. Summer is the most crowded with tourists, with long lines at some of the most popular attractions, and slightly higher hotel rates. May and September are excellent months to visit, because it’s a bit less crowded and hot than summer, but all the seasonal attractions are still open.
Tough question. Each neighborhood has its own unique energy. South Philly is top-notch for food, as it’s home to the Italian Market, as well as a slew of affordable Italian, Asian and Mexican restaurants. Northern Liberties has excellent nightlife and a lively young energy. Old City is best for tourist sites and getting a sense of Old Philadelphia, and the Rittenhouse area of Center City West is best for shopping, strolling and people-watching on a weekend afternoon. And since I grew up in Mt. Airy, I must give it a shout-out for its lovely tree-lined streets, diverse community, and access to Wissahickon Park.
All of the historic sites are very family-friendly, and offer kids a great history lesson in a fun setting. The Please Touch Museum is a world-class interactive kids museum in Fairmount Park, and the Franklin Institute (and IMAX theatre), Academy of Natural Sciences, and the Constitution Center, are excellent attractions for kids with interactive, hands-on exhibits. Smith Playground is a free 100+-year-old playground and playhouse in Fairmount Park with a giant old wooden slide that can fit about 10 kids across—it’s definitely off the tourist track, but very popular with locals. I had many a memorable birthday party there in my youth!
Please Touch Museum
Memorial Hall, West Fairmount Park, 4231 Avenue of the Republic, 215/581-3181,
www.pleasetouchmuseum.org
HOURS: Daily 9 a.m.–4:30 p.m.
COST: $9.95 adult and child, $1 under the age of 1With a name like Please Touch, it’s obvious that this giant playground is meant to be enjoyed hands-on. Children love to dress up in costume, have tea with Alice and the Mad Hatter, operate flying machines, and drive the SEPTA bus.
Exhibits aim to motivate learning, development, and imaginations, but are also lots of fun.
Philly is home to more murals than any other city in the world, with more than 3,000 murals beautifying walls across the city, courtesy of the Mural Arts Program. Guided trolley tours offer a chance to check out the elaborate works of art and catch a glimpse of many neighborhoods most people wouldn’t otherwise see. Also, I’m not sure if people know that Philly has the largest urban park system in the world, so outdoor recreational opportunities abound.
