Surprisingly upscale for West County, Hartford sits in a pastoral valley surrounded by redwood-forested hills, on one of the area’s prettiest back roads. It specializes in fine single-vineyard pinot (12 kinds), chardonnay and zinfandel from old-vine fruit. Umbrella-shaded picnic tables dot the garden. Bottles are $38 to $90 and the tasting fee is waived with purchase.