L'Express, on Rue Saint-Denis in the Plateau Mont-Royal neighborhood, opened in 1980 and has about it the air of a beloved institution—with its timeless style it feels even older that it is. This popular spots serves classic renditions of bistro fare—beef tartare, bone marrow, onion soup—until late into the night (2 am every day except for Sundays, when it closes at 1 am). When the kitchen ventures into new territory, the results are impressive too. The spaghetti with mushrooms was unconventional in its presentation (topped with a healthy serving of arugula) but it was of those dishes you try on the road and then want to recreate at home. Reservations recommended.
