In the motherland, jerk chicken is cooked in mammoth fire pits. One pit houses the chicken; another is devoted to the pork. If you end up at your restaurant of choice at the wrong time, you’ll end up hanging around for at least 40 minutes, waiting for the billowing smoke to pass and your chicken, served in tinfoil, to emerge.
At Allwyn’s Bakery, things aren’t done in quite the same matter; we aren’t in Jamaica, after all. Located in Donwood Plaza, the tiny eatery has a simple sign done in royal blue lettering, noting both the business’ name and its wares: patties, jerk chicken, oxtail and curry. However, it's the sandwich that’s the main draw.
The sammie sees a mound of succulent, well-spiced hunks of juicy chicken piled into an oh-so-soft cocobun ($4.25). A melange of spices are built up for the jerk seasoning: allspice, cinnamon, cloves, ginger, star anise and ground scotch bonnets for that essential dose of heat. The option of creamy slaw is there for those who desire some crunch and a hint of acidity. Ask for it with or without a beef patty — those who can stomach the carbs should go for the whole shebang.
There’s a reason why insiders call it the top jerk chicken sandwich in the city.