This comfy eatery—with Mario Bellini–designed leather chairs and a cherrywood bar—makes the most of the region’s bounty from both the land and the sea. The restaurant’s strong suit is classics with a spin (tomato-and-gin soup with a basil-cheese-stuffed gougère) and sustainably sourced seafood (Haida Gwaii sablefish with three-vinegar glaze and dashi broth).