Playa Grande is considered one of the world's most important nesting areas for the baula (leatherback turtle). The park encompasses the entire beach and adjacent land (700 hectares), along with 220 sq km of ocean. In the evenings from October to March, rangers lead tours for visitors to witness this amazing cycle of life.
The ecosystem is primarily composed of mangrove swamp, ideal for caiman and crocodile, as well as numerous bird species, including the beautiful roseate spoonbill. But the main attraction is the nesting of the world’s largest species of turtle, which can weigh in excess of 400kg.
Nesting season is from October to March. It’s fairly common to see turtles lay their eggs here on any given night, but it may not be a leatherback. Chances of seeing one of these giants hover around 10%, while you are 95% sure to see a green or black turtle.
The leatherback is critically endangered and, despite increased conservation efforts, fewer leatherbacks are nesting on Playa Grande each year. In an effort to protect the dwindling population, park rangers collect eggs and incubate them to increase their chances of survival. Even so, sea turtles must hatch on the beach and enter the water by themselves, otherwise memory imprinting does not occur, and the hatchlings will never return to their birthplace to nest. It’s estimated that only 10% of hatchlings survive to adulthood, though leatherbacks can live more than 50 years, and females lay multiple clutches of eggs during a single nesting season.
The park office is by the northern entrance to Playa Grande. Reservations for turtle-watching can be made up to seven days in advance. Many hotels and tourist agencies in Tamarindo also book tours that include transportation, as well as park admission and a guided tour.
The show kicks off anytime after 9pm. (Be prepared to wait. It could be a very long night – but well worth it.) Tourists are not allowed on the beach until the turtles have made it to dry sand. Guards with two-way radios will alert your guide, who will accompany you to a designated viewing area. Photography, filming or lights of any kind are prohibited to protect the turtles. Over the span of one to two hours, you can watch as the turtle digs its nest, lays about 80 to 90 silver shiny eggs and then buries them in the sand (while grunting and groaning).
