Antigua's cathedral was begun in 1545, wrecked by the quake of 1773, and only partially rebuilt over the next century. The present sliver of a church – the parish of San José – occupies only the entrance hall of the original edifice. Behind this structure are the roofless ruins of the main part of the cathedral, which is entered from 5a Calle Oriente.
It's a haunting place, with massive chunks of pillars strewn beneath sweeping brick archways and vegetation sprouting from wall cracks. Reproductions of the intricate plasterwork figures and moldings between the arches seem all that more impressive against the ruined backdrop. Behind the main altar, steps lead down to a former crypt now serving as a chapel, with a smoke-blackened Christ.
