Perched like a mini–Machu Picchu on a plateau beneath a horn-shaped mountain (the Cerro de Metates), Quiahuiztlán (place of the rains) is a pre-Hispanic Totonac town and necropolis. Counting 15,000 inhabitants at the time of Cortés’ arrival in 1519, its history before that is sketchy, although there was certainly a settlement here by AD 800. Enjoying a commanding view of the Gulf coast, the now-deserted site has two pyramids, more than 70 tombs and some carved monuments.
Rock climbers revere the precipitous Cerro de Metates (with routes graded 5.6 to 5.8) that rises behind. It’s a pleasant 3km walk up a winding paved road to the part of the site that overlooks the ocean. From here you can experience the sacred Totonac ruins in solitude and amid nature, unlike more touristed ruins. The first question most of the sporadic visitors to these amazing Totonac ruins ask is: why, given its historic importance and stunning setting, is there no one else here? Alas, there’s no logical answer. Rather it’s best just to relish the tranquility and keep mum. If you want to arrive by a Hwy 180 bus, have the driver drop you at the Quiahuiztlán turnoff.
