On the northeast shore of the lake, the well-established Reserva Ecológica de Nanciyaga preserves a small tract of rainforest. The grounds are replete with a temascal, an ancient planetarium and Olmec-themed decorations and replicas. Even though it plays up the contrived indigenous theme, this place stands out for its organization and cleanliness.
One night’s lodging (M$1730 for two people with food) in solar-powered cabins includes a mineral mud bath, a massage, a guided walk and the use of kayaks. You have to walk to the bathrooms, so it’s a mix of rustic and high-quality. It’s not for everyone, but it provides an incredible experience for those who want to be very close to nature while being reasonably comfortable. Arrive by pirata (M$8), taxi (M$80) or by boat (M$50 per person; hire in Catemaco).