A 30-minute walk from town is the can’t-miss Museo Alejandro Rangel Hidalgo , in the gorgeous former Hacienda Nogueras. Hidalgo (1923−2000) was a designer, painter and illustrator, whose incredibly detailed work redefines indigenous and religious symbolism and has a captivating magical realism quality. Check out Angel of Kenya, his 1962 depiction of a Maasai goddess. There’s also a tremendous collection of pre-Hispanic ceramics and a cool sketch of Frida Kahlo. To get here, walk about 400m along Calle Degollado (left of the church); then turn left at the T-intersection, go 1km, then turn right at the next T-intersection and go another 1km. You can also take a bus (M$5) from behind the church or a taxi (M$25).