Five hundred years ago, over 550,000 sq km of dry tropical forest stretched down the coast from northern Mexico to Panama. Much of the remaining 10% is around El Fuerte, an area known as Bosque Secreto. The delightful Río Fuerte, which is incredibly rich in birdlife (including herons, osprey, kingfishers and flycatchers) winds through much of the forest. Expert bird-watching guide Chal Gámez at the Hotel Río Vista organizes kayak or boat trips (M$250 per person) along the river, taking in some 2000-year-old petroglyphs.
