Ten kilometers south of downtown Uruapan, the wild Rio Cupatitzio makes its last act count. It pumps hard over the vine-covered, 30m-high red rock cliffs and crashes into a misty turquoise pool. This is the Tzaráracua waterfall . On the meandering hike down the 557 slippery steps to the falls you’ll see that the raging river has been dammed a few kilometers downstream.