Central America’s longest river, the Coco (or Wangki), runs all the way to the Caribbean, but her first impression may be her most spectacular. Gushing from underground, she has carved solid rock into this 3km-long gorge that drops 160m, and at times is just a hair under 10m wide.
Protected as Monumento Nacional Cañon de Somoto, the canyon is an unmissable experience. There are three routes to explore the canyon. You won’t always have comfortable footing, so reef shoes or sandals help a lot, and you’ll have more fun if you’re fit.
The full six-hour, 12km circuit will take you to two bat caves well above the rim before you hike down to the river, boulder hop, swim through (small) rapids and leap off 8m rocks into deep swimming holes.
The most popular option is the four-hour, 6km classic loop that will get you straight into the canyon, where you’ll swim, hike and leap beneath slate-rock faces and jagged peaks.
For those that are adverse to exercise, there is also a three-hour 'lite' tour where you are paddled up the gorge in a small boat and float back down in an inflatable tube.
Guides (half-/full day up to five people US$15 to US$20) are not technically mandatory if you just want to hang around the lower reaches, but are absolutely essential if you want to venture into the canyon.
In addition to having expert knowledge of river conditions – which may become dangerous during the wet season – guides also blend local insight with adventure and create a richer experience.
Guides from the local community of Sonis at the entrance to the reserve have formed a cooperative and work on a rotation basis. They offer a fantastic package including taxi transportation from Somoto, life vest and water shoes, a dry bag, entrance fee, guide, lunch and a boat trip for US$25 per visitor. They also offer horseback-riding tours to the surrounding mountains to get a birds-eye view of the area and organize homestays in the community so you are able to spend more time exploring. Another option is to visit the site with one of the professional guides from Cosermuturma in Somoto.
To visit the canyon take any El Espino bound bus (US$0.40, 30 minutes) from the bus terminal to the trail head at Km 231 near the community of Sonis. A taxi will cost around (US$5). From here it's a 3km hike to the canyon including a river crossing that may be over a meter deep. The last bus back to Somoto passes at around 5:30pm.
The canyon often closes in October, when the water is too high. Call the guides to check on conditions.