This small national park is arguably the most important Pre-Columbian site in Panama - the Sarigua site has been dated back 11,000 years based on shell mounds and pottery fragments. In contrast to many of Panama's other national parks, this is not the place to encounter lush forests or abundant wildlife. The desert-like wasteland exists as a sad and potent reminder of the future of Panama if greed wins out over environmental responsibility.
The park was once dry tropical rainforest and coastal mangrove. Sarigua is the end product of slash-and-burn agriculture. People moved into the area, cut down all the trees, set fire to the debris, planted crops for a few harvests and then left. The forest that held the thin topsoil in place was removed, and the annual heavy rains carried the topsoil out to sea.
A visit to Sarigua is not for everyone. It is though a sober reminder of the Earth's fragility, and the rapid speed in which we as humans can alter the environment. From the mirador (lookout) behind the ranger station, you can gaze out at the dry, cracked earth and swirling dust storms that used to be a living, breathing ecosystem.
