Traveling the wide, brown Sambú River is a heart-of-darkness experience: you'll pass through spectacular jungle while gliding past traditional Emberá and Wounaan villages. Be forewarned: it's not everyone's cup of tea. If riding in a boat that's loaded down with leaking gasoline cans bothers you, you should probably pass on the Sambú - you'll need to bring several large containers of gas from La Palma to fuel the canoe you hire upriver.
This journey has other minor hardships, such as a lack of showers and toilets, and an abundance of creepy crawlies. But, a trip up the Río Sambú is a true adventure, something that may not be possible anywhere in the Tropics 50 years from now. Even if you travel deep into the Amazon, you'd be hard-pressed to find such wilderness these days.
At night, you can make camp if you have a tent or a jungle hammock. However, your boatman may prefer to make a deal to sleep on the floor of an Emberá or Wounaan family's home. If you can speak Spanish, finding a family to move in with for the night isn't difficult, you might even get a hot meal.
