It's no secret that the main reason anyone visits this far-flung outpost of WA civilisation is Ningaloo. However, the young town of Exmouth hasn't sat on its heels when it comes to catering to these visitors: it's now a relaxed, vibey place that's worth a visit in its own right.
Exmouth began life as a support town for the nearby US Naval Communication Station Harold E. Holt (originally christened 'North West Cape', but renamed in honour of the Australian Prime Minister who drowned in 1968), one of the most powerful facilities of its kind in the southern hemisphere. For much of its history, and barring the odd category five cyclone, it's been a sleepy, out-of-touch kind of place, only rousing itself to welcome the influx of travellers drawn by Ningaloo since the late 1980s. While its utilitarian, military past is ever-visible, tourism is now its lifeblood, and a host of backpackers' lodges, dive companies and modern cafes have sprung up to service the seasonal influx.
