Six kilometres from town is Ocean Beach, awesome as much for its 33km length as for the strength of the surf that pounds it. This stretch of sand and sea runs uninterrupted from Trial Harbour in the north to Macquarie Heads in the south – and is the place to watch the orange orb of the sun melt into the sea. The water is treacherous: don’t swim.
The dunes behind the beach become a mutton bird rookery from October, when the birds return from their 15,000km winter migration. They stay until April, providing an evening spectacle as they return to their nests at dusk.