Meander, jog or chew through your trashy airport novel in these lush city-fringe gardens. Highlights include a restored 1877 palm house, the waterlily pavilion (housing the gigantic Victoria amazonica ), the new First Creek wetlands, the engrossing Museum of Economic Botany and the fabulous steel-and-glass arc of the Bicentennial Conservatory (open 10am to 4pm), which recreates a tropical rainforest. Free 1½-hour guided walks depart the Schomburgk Pavilion at 10.30am daily.