Daytime action in Fortitude Valley focuses on Brunswick Street Mall, a pedestrianised arcade full of pavement cafes, bars and shops. It remains to be seen if the $4-million makeover under way when we visited will lift the mall out of its enduring seediness. Until that time, James St and Brunswick St are probably better places to begin your explorations. Check out the in-ground plaques honouring Brisbane's rock 'n' roll elite.